Alone in a berth in a mostly abandoned restaurant, I was cat-and-mouse for a buzz alarm and killing time, hard. Latin music wafted from a abroad portal. The buyer agilely placed a card on the table and I accomplished I had been staring at the blurred awning on my phone. I bare alone a quick glance at the laminated pages. “Can I try the mole?”
A while ago, a chef on television derided addition chef’s birthmark as a kitchen mishap, the adventitious aftereffect of a jar of amber falling assimilate the chicken. I was absorbed by how amiss it sounded, and how appropriate it could be. Today was my adventitious to acquisition out. “Oh, you’ll like the mole,” the buyer said. “Perfect for a day like this.” The plate, aback it came, was a agreement of layered browns—grilled craven coated with a aphotic gravy and the requisite ancillary of refried beans and rice.
This was how I came to adulation mole. A aggregate of dozens of ingredients—chiles and nuts, broiled spices like cumin, cinnamon, chile powder; fruits like raisins, plantains and tomatoes; altered kinds of Mexican chocolate; and starches like broiled tortillas (or alike beastly crackers, according to one recipe)—are alone roasted, fried, burst and layered into a banal to simmer until aggregate mellows and blends into a dark, blubbery gravy that lets no ablaze escape. It’s a affectionate of black you won’t apperception falling into.
Only a scattering of restaurants about O‘ahu serve mole. Best of them use ancestors recipes fabricated centralized with pride, with dozens of ingredients, abounding of which are kept secret. Actuality is a roundup.
It all started here, with a aphotic birthmark booze blanketing slices of broiled chicken. Accept you heard the adventure of the bobcat who accepted that a painter beautify him with all the colors of the world? Aback the painter obliged, the colors alloy blackly. That’s what’s accident actuality and there is no abashment in that. Despite its simple presentation, Los Chaparros’ birthmark is adventurous but subtle, giving and withholding. This is a bottomless pit of flavors—everything in the apple melting into one adamant whole. The aromatics of the spices hit you and evaporate, abrogation a rich, corrupt begrimed base, agreeable with amber and coffee notes. There’s some of this and some of that, cursory tastes that are absurd to pin down. Accept it over craven enchiladas or broken craven and blah tortillas. Leave all your troubles behind.
Mole enchiladas $17.50, craven birthmark $16.25, ancillary of birthmark $2.75. 2140 S. Beretania St. (808) 951-6399, loschaparros.com
A lighter, ambrosial Oaxacan birthmark application bounded capacity that hits a aerial agenda on your palate—bittersweet, with chiles and cumin, and a affluence that hints of milk chocolate, which is not one of the 24 capacity that go into this dish. Miniature bales of tender, disconnected beef amalgamate able-bodied with the sauce, and are arranged into small, ambrosial blah tortillas. The beef is saturated but not clammy with sauce. Garnished with sesame seeds, ablaze acerb pickled onions, cilantro and hoja santa. Perfect handheld bites.
$3.95 per taco. 108 Hekili St., (808) 262-8226, taqueriaelgallorosa.com, @tacos.el.gallo.rosa
This is a darker birthmark poblano from a ancestors compound that traces aback to Puebla in axial Mexico. You can accept it over absolutely breakable disconnected chicken, or with craven enchiladas. Portions are acceptable and the birthmark drenches and coats everything. This is a aphotic and close booze with its own accident horizon. There is absolutely balmy heat, with amber and darker broiled bake-apple flavors. There is a blow of acidity to this one. Savored every bite.
Mexico Enchiladas (in birthmark sauce) $20.99, Craven Birthmark Bowl $22.99. 99-115 Aiea Heights Dr., (808) 488-9727, @elcharro_aiea
This one is from a ancestors compound that comes from the burghal of Guerrero and is on the card as astronomic “chonitas” recipe, with capacity like ancho and guajillo chiles, raisins, almonds, atom and chocolate. The blow is for assembly only. Believe me, I approved to acquisition out more. The booze is portioned out a little added conservatively over enchiladas than at added locations. Of the lot, this bowl was abundant added on the cheese and acerb chrism toppings, and they amalgamate with the sauce’s own richness. Note: Not every Pacos Tacos area serves it, so I would alarm advanced for the Kaua‘i locations.
$19, 555 N. King St., (808) 772-4123
A lighter birthmark in bendability with a brownish hue. This from addition time-intensive ancestors compound that comes from Juarez. Disconnected craven sits in the birthmark that’s added braising aqueous than booze or gravy. Definitely spicier. The chile de arbol can’t delay to hit you and acknowledge itself the alpha of this arena, a amateur from the high brackets of the Scoville chart. Still, the aerial aromatics of biscuit and amber ball through, cheeky you as you clean your brow. This was the best different of the moles I’ve had. It stands out as an archetype of how assorted this bowl is.
$12.75, 177 S. Kamehameha Hwy, (808) 622-5829
I’m told there are added moles, like white birthmark fabricated with pistachios and white chocolate. Moles fabricated with a peanut abject that tastes like the peanut booze at Thai restaurants. One home compound I came beyond was a simple admixture of biscuit and chocolate.
So if you apperceive of any others, let us know, and we’ll add it to this post. Birthmark may not be the flashiest, newest or trendiest account on a menu, but these restaurants booty the time to accomplish it. Try them sometime.
Recipes Using Shredded Chicken – recipes using shredded chicken
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